Flying Fish at Pyrmont’s Jones Bay Wharf still one of Sydney’s best restaurants …

27.7.14

IT has been 10 years since Peter Kuruvita opened Flying Fish on Pyrmont’s Jones Bay Wharf — a milestone that will be marked on Tuesday night with a big soiree.

And as the current executive chef Stephen Seckold points out, a decade is a long time in this business.

Especially in view of the fact Flying Fish has managed to maintain its footing as one of Sydney’s best restaurants — waterfront or not.

“I think the key is that we’ve never had a dictatorship in this kitchen,” says Seckold, who started there in 2004, left in 2008 and returned in 2010 after a stint overseas. He ­replaced Kuruvita as executive chef in 2011.

“We’ve been lucky that we’ve always had really good chefs who are open to feedback. There have been hard times but we’ve gotten through it and we’re better for it.”

 

The smoked Petuna trout is a perfect example of Seckold’s genius — delicately cold smoked by blowtorching woodchips under ice.

 

The sexy dark-wood interiors feel fresh and modern. The service feels tighter and the atmosphere warmer … although that could be the floor heating, which kicks in over winter.

And even at night and in the dead of winter there’s that view of Sydney Harbour.

The smoked Petuna trout is a perfect example of Seckold’s genius — delicately cold smoked by blowtorching woodchips under ice.

It is served on a bed of fish roe, drizzled with a rose vinaigrette, sprinkled with crispy buckwheat and rose petals and topped with a sheet of crispy fried trout skin dusted with pea and nori powder.

Full story: THE SUNDAY TELEGRAPH BY AMY HARRIS

Highlight: The smoked Petuna trout